Hello, I have a question about how much it should cost to have an electrician replace circuit breakers. Recently, an electrician was going to charge me $150 for a standard DP 2-pole 20amp breaker and $150 each for a SP arc-fault breaker x's 4 = $600, totaling $750 to replace 5 circuit breakers. This seemed like a lot to me especially after I went online and looked up prices if I bought the breakers myself. It seemed even more after watching your video on how easy it is to do yourself (btw-great video). I am not having problems with my breakers, the electrician was doing a check on my panels since the house is 15 years old and said certain breakers should be replaced.
My questions are: 1. Is the pricing fair or is it high for someone else to do? (live in Gulf Coast, MS). 2. Should I replace the breakers because of the age of the house?
Hi Joe. No not at all. Seems like he is playing you. 15 years is not old at all. Heck mine are like 11 years old and to me they are still new. Unless you're having issues, leave it alone. For $750. I'll be right over and that would include my air fair, LOL..
Hi Dominick, Thanks for your great video. You explain everything in very simple terms. I have done some basic work before and a friend asked me to help her install a kiln that requires 240v line. I have never worked with 240 before, but all I have read about, it seems like I would just need to install outlet and wiring to code back to the required new 50a breaker in her panel. Am I oversimplifying this too much? Once i put the 50a breaker in, that is what is gathering both 120v lines together, right?
Thank you. To put it simple yes you're right. Just make sure that the panel has the space of course and that you'll have the two DIFFERENT phases to the breaker. Each one would be 120 volt. And of course the neutral and ground. Sounds like you got it.
I have a building with 2 apartments that are 2 bedrooms each. They currently have 100 amp services. They get heat and hot water from oil fired boilers that are used for hot water baseboard and the domestic water coil. They have electric ranges in the kitchens. The apartments are 700-800 square feet each with a kitchen, living room 2 bedrooms and a bathroom. The oil has been an issue because of how much it has gone up in price and the residents not having $400-$500 to get their tanks filled (they each have their own oil tank). Would the electrical code enable me to change these to electric baseboard and electric water heater with the 100 amp service or will I need to upgrade the entire service? If it matters the building is in PA.
A 100 amp service is not all that much. The stove / oven in todays codes needs a 50 amp. Now adding electric heat I would say would bring you over the top. But this really depends on how many heaters. Each heater will take up two slots in your panel as well. So not just is the 100 amp enough but will you have the room in the panels as well. However the big issue here is not just upgrading the panels but the service (wire from the meters) to the panels.
I'm also thinking you would need at least six heaters per apartment. And lets say each one is going to pull 20 amps, well that's 120 amps right there. Hope this helped you out. Sorry for the delay we were out making more videos..
This may sound weird but here is what I am trying to do.. I want to add an outlet behind my wall mounted tv which is surge protected. So basically I am thinking , I have my regular outlet at the floor, which feeds my surge protector, which then provides power for another new outlet I install at the ground level. And this new outlet is connected using Romex to an outlet behind the tv.
Does that make sense? Both these outlets are not wired to the electrical but just to each other. But if I plug the bottom outlet into a spot on my surge protector, would this outlet become hot and cause the other outlet to become hot as well?
Yes it would, however outlets are of the female type and your prodector plug is a male type. So they would all be connected but still have no power to them. If I understand you correctly.
I have a motor system designed for 230 VAC. The power available on site is only 208 VAC with a distance run from the power source to the motor. Can I or should I use a booster transformer to raise the voltage to 230 VAC? If so, should I locate the transformer at the power source or at the motor?
Hi, this would really depend on the length of the run. I would have to say if it's not that far, then at the power source. However do you really need to do that just for 22 more volts. What is it anyway.
Oh and all questions here are first appoved before they can go live. Other wise the bad internet guys would be posting crazy stuff like they always try to. So yes you did post it, LOL.. Just to let you know..
In a 100A Panel I have a dbl pole Siemens type QP 20A breaker run to a throw-switch box rated 30A with 2 type TL screw-in fuses in it. The wire going from the breaker/panel is old an unmarked and has burn marks where it connects inside the throw switch box. One of the fuses keeps blowing. The wire coming out of the box is 10/3 romex plus ground and connects to a GE DWXR463EG1WW Dryer which is marked for 120/240V 60Hz 5600W 24A.
One of the TL fuses in the throw switch box in between the dryer and breaker in the main panel blows monthly and the wires coming in from the breaker are charred. I am thinking i need to replace the Dbl pole 20A breaker with a 30A breaker as well as the wire running to the throw switch box, or eliminate the throw switch and put in a 30A dryer outlet and then hook up a 3 wire plug to the dryer and plug it in.
Is it as simple as that or am I missing something? Your advice is greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance - Vince
Just as simple as you put it. Replace the breaker with a 30 amp. Ruun all new wire from the breaker right the dryer outlet with a 10/2 or 10/3. That's all you need to do.
Thanks for the very straightforward video. I saw a response to a question about exchanging a 20a for a 30a breaker because the wiring needing to be larger. Is that always true on the higher breakers? I just bought a house that has a circuit that pops immediately - found out it runs to a large heat pump which specs say needs 60a. The previous owner says it worked fine for several years and I wanted to check if I needed AC service or replace the breaker. If it pops immediately, doesn't that usually means it is a problem elsewhere and not the breaker? Would it be unwise to change it out to a 60a to even diagnose if it is the AC or breaker? Am just trying to save a second AC service charge since they may just look at the breaker and see it is 50a and say "you need to change this to 60a before we can service it".
Yes, the wire should match the breaker / amps being used. In your case 60 amps is very large. I would disconnect the wire from the pump and then check to see if it pops right away. Either way you should check the amp draw from the breaker side and the from the pump. Are you sure it's 60 amps ? What is the voltage 120 / 220 ?
I have been looking around www.askmediy.com and really am impressed by the amazing content here. I work the nightshift at my job and it really gets boring. I've been coming here for the previous couple nights and reading. I just wanted to let you know that I have been enjoying what I have seen and I look ahead to reading more.
i am replacing an outlet to a gfi outlet. one set of wires has white ,black , red, and bare ground wires...the other has white, black and bare ground wires . on the old outlet the two white wires was hooked up on the silver side....one black on the brass side.... one red and one black are coupled together inside the box. one of the white wires i found out was on a different curcuit.
It's hard for me to say without really knowing what you have. A red wire could be from a different phase. So you should stay away from that one for now. You should be able to just use the same wires from the old outlet to the new GFI. one black, one white and the ground.
Test with a tester across the black and white wires. You should only have 120 volts. But mix that red in and you could have 220 volts.
An electrical outlet I had used for many years to run a window air conditioner stopped working. I replaced the plug and it still doesn't work. A voltage meter is not reading anything on the outlet (before or after the new plug - is there another way to test for currrent?). The circuit breaker has never gone off. It seems that there is no power coming to the plug. What should I do next to fix the problem? The only 2 possibilities I can think of is the breaker is bad or the wire is bad. How could I tell if either one or both is bad and needs to be fixed? Btw, I am a novice at this stuff but would like to try and fix it myself if possible and prudent. Thanks,
By plug do you mean the outlet in the wall ? If so I need to know if were talking about 120 volt or 220 volt. That's very important in order for me to help you.
More than likely you have another outlet in the circuit before the breaker that is the problem. Also check to see if you have any tripped GFI outlets. Check all power to all outlets in your house
Also do a search in my forum for no power. You will find many post there on the same problem you're having.
it turned out to be something so simple (which isn't surprising)...i followed the wires leading out of the box (which was in a cabinet) and where it crossed an adjoining wall i assumed it went to another bedroom...but there's a small closet in-between in the stairwell. I pulled out a drawer in the closet and there it was - wires running to a circuit breaker in the back of the closet...a breaker was off.
it took a lot of time and frustration but i learned a ton about something i know little about, so it was worth it...thanks Dominick for the help and you have an excellent website.
I have searched the internet for three days now. I found your 3-way switch demo the best. I have two questions.
1. My 3-way switches are connected with 14-2. Is there a way to get 14-3 in there? After watching your video, I think I know why it is not really a 3-way switch.
2. I am also looking a 3-way switched split receptacle solution.
I hope I am using the right terms here. I have 2 3-way switches that control two 2-receptacle outlets. the top receptacle of each outlet is switched and controlleed by the 3-way switches. The bottom receptacle is supposed to be hot, but I don't get anything out of it. I have no idea what to do.
Thank you very much. And no you would have to remove the old 14/2 wire and install a 14/3 wire.
You would have to remove those outlets and see how the wiring is done. And what kind of outlet it is. Try going into my forum and post a picture of it for me to see.
I just bought a new electric dryer this weekend. I have had a gas dryer for the past 22 years but prior to that I did have an electric dryer. The dryer won't start. Is it possible that the breaker has gotten corroded from lack of use? The 220 has not been disconnected but fails to work. I did flip the breaker several times but it still doesn't work. Please help if you can. . . . .Thanks!
Hi Sandy, No the breaker would still be good or bad, what ever state it was in when you last used it. A dryer will need 220 volts. So make sure you are playing with the right breaker, it will be a 2 pole breaker. Mesning it will be bigger then the others (120 volt)
Also if the dryer is new chances are someone had to install the wire to the dryer. Make sure it's installed the right way. Also get a cheap tester and test the outlet. You'll be looking for 220 volts.
I was recently installing a new light dimmer, I had it hooked up and the dimmer was working but when I flipped the light switch off it popped and sparked and now all the light switches on that circut are not working. I checked the fuse box and it did not tripp the fuse. What could be the problem and how do u recommend fixing it? Thank you.
Real important that I know the colors of the wires and what you have hooked up. Also if you can send me picture of this that would be a big help. Make sure you don't have any white wires connected to the switch. More then likely the breaker did trip but it doesn't look like it did. Trying flipping it off and back on again. But only after you disconnected the wires from the switch.
hi I am wiring lights and sockets threw my house and my electric guy said that I can get away with running a 20 breaker with 12-2 wire on 15 amp sockets and light switches, he said it's not code but I can't even plug 20 amp plugs into a 15 amp socket anyway, is that true. also how many 60 watt lights and can I run on a 20 amp and 15 amp circuit I have 10 lights now on one.
Yes you can get away with it. But it's not worth it. It's better to just use 20 amp outlets. And yes you can insert a 20 amp whatever in a 15 amp outlet. a 20 amp 220 would be different.
By code you can put 12 whatever on one 20 amp line. Not just light bulbs. But as far as just how many light bulbs. That's a tuff one.
hi my son is building a new house it is 3600 sq ft. his builder has told him he needs a 400amp sevrice with 2 200amp boxes. i have done some ele, work over the years but i don,t see the need for this . do you? thanks frankie
No not really. However this would really depend on what he has in the house that would need so much. 3600 is a nice size. He may be doing this because of how many breakers the house needs there for he needs the other panel for the room as well. so in that case it's not the matter of the 400 amp service, it's on the room in the panel that will be needed.
2) Dom, when u say 2phase=220v, I want to ask 220v is potential diff. between which two conductors? Black one and neutral? or between two blacks?
3)And again, why there are two phases in the pannel when only one for (120 v) is required?
if possible send ur answer on amitkcpvg@gmail.com
My questions are: 1. Is the pricing fair or is it high for someone else to do? (live in Gulf Coast, MS).
2. Should I replace the breakers because of the age of the house?
Thank you for your time,
Joe
Thanks in advance for any help you can give!
I have a building with 2 apartments that are 2 bedrooms each. They currently have 100 amp services. They get heat and hot water from oil fired boilers that are used for hot water baseboard and the domestic water coil. They have electric ranges in the kitchens. The apartments are 700-800 square feet each with a kitchen, living room 2 bedrooms and a bathroom. The oil has been an issue because of how much it has gone up in price and the residents not having $400-$500 to get their tanks filled (they each have their own oil tank). Would the electrical code enable me to change these to electric baseboard and electric water heater with the 100 amp service or will I need to upgrade the entire service? If it matters the building is in PA.
Many thanks for your great vids.
Gene
I know what you're are saying very well, LOL..
A 100 amp service is not all that much. The stove / oven in todays codes needs a 50 amp. Now adding electric heat I would say would bring you over the top. But this really depends on how many heaters. Each heater will take up two slots in your panel as well. So not just is the 100 amp enough but will you have the room in the panels as well. However the big issue here is not just upgrading the panels but the service (wire from the meters) to the panels.
I'm also thinking you would need at least six heaters per apartment. And lets say each one is going to pull 20 amps, well that's 120 amps right there. Hope this helped you out. Sorry for the delay we were out making more videos..
Regards... Dominick
Hey there,
This may sound weird but here is what I am trying to do.. I want to add an outlet behind my wall mounted tv which is surge protected. So basically I am thinking , I have my regular outlet at the floor, which feeds my surge protector, which then provides power for another new outlet I install at the ground level. And this new outlet is connected using Romex to an outlet behind the tv.
Does that make sense? Both these outlets are not wired to the electrical but just to each other. But if I plug the bottom outlet into a spot on my surge protector, would this outlet become hot and cause the other outlet to become hot as well?
Thanks
Ari!
Yes it would, however outlets are of the female type and your prodector plug is a male type. So they would all be connected but still have no power to them. If I understand you correctly.
I have a motor system designed for 230 VAC. The power available on site is only 208 VAC with a distance run from the power source to the motor. Can I or should I use a booster transformer to raise the voltage to 230 VAC? If so, should I locate the transformer at the power source or at the motor?
Hi, this would really depend on the length of the run. I would have to say if it's not that far, then at the power source. However do you really need to do that just for 22 more volts. What is it anyway.
Oh and all questions here are first appoved before they can go live. Other wise the bad internet guys would be posting crazy stuff like they always try to. So yes you did post it, LOL.. Just to let you know..
Hey Dominick,
Great breaker replacement video!
In a 100A Panel I have a dbl pole Siemens type QP 20A breaker run to a throw-switch box rated 30A with 2 type TL screw-in fuses in it. The wire going from the breaker/panel is old an unmarked and has burn marks where it connects inside the throw switch box. One of the fuses keeps blowing. The wire coming out of the box is 10/3 romex plus ground and connects to a GE DWXR463EG1WW Dryer which is marked for 120/240V 60Hz 5600W 24A.
One of the TL fuses in the throw switch box in between the dryer and breaker in the main panel blows monthly and the wires coming in from the breaker are charred. I am thinking i need to replace the Dbl pole 20A breaker with a 30A breaker as well as the wire running to the throw switch box, or eliminate the throw switch and put in a 30A dryer outlet and then hook up a 3 wire plug to the dryer and plug it in.
Is it as simple as that or am I missing something? Your advice is greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance - Vince
Just as simple as you put it. Replace the breaker with a 30 amp. Ruun all new wire from the breaker right the dryer outlet with a 10/2 or 10/3. That's all you need to do.
Thanks for the very straightforward video. I saw a response to a question about exchanging a 20a for a 30a breaker because the wiring needing to be larger. Is that always true on the higher breakers? I just bought a house that has a circuit that pops immediately - found out it runs to a large heat pump which specs say needs 60a. The previous owner says it worked fine for several years and I wanted to check if I needed AC service or replace the breaker. If it pops immediately, doesn't that usually means it is a problem elsewhere and not the breaker? Would it be unwise to change it out to a 60a to even diagnose if it is the AC or breaker? Am just trying to save a second AC service charge since they may just look at the breaker and see it is 50a and say "you need to change this to 60a before we can service it".
Thanks again for your great site!
Yes, the wire should match the breaker / amps being used. In your case 60 amps is very large. I would disconnect the wire from the pump and then check to see if it pops right away. Either way you should check the amp draw from the breaker side and the from the pump. Are you sure it's 60 amps ? What is the voltage 120 / 220 ?
can 24 volt wire and 120 volt wire be placed side by side
Sure, however. If the 24 volts is something that makes noise like a amp with speakers you could get line noise.
I have been looking around www.askmediy.com and really am impressed by the amazing content here. I work the nightshift at my job and it really gets boring. I've been coming here for the previous couple nights and reading. I just wanted to let you know that I have been enjoying what I have seen and I look ahead to reading more.
Thank you very much.
Can you replace a 16 volt transformer adapter with a 18 volt transformer adapter?
For the most part yes. However this would greatly depend on what it is being used for.
i am replacing an outlet to a gfi outlet. one set of wires has white ,black , red, and bare ground wires...the other has white, black and bare ground wires . on the old outlet the two white wires was hooked up on the silver side....one black on the brass side.... one red and one black are coupled together inside the box. one of the white wires i found out was on a different curcuit.
It's hard for me to say without really knowing what you have. A red wire could be from a different phase. So you should stay away from that one for now. You should be able to just use the same wires from the old outlet to the new GFI. one black, one white and the ground.
Test with a tester across the black and white wires. You should only have 120 volts. But mix that red in and you could have 220 volts.
An electrical outlet I had used for many years to run a window air conditioner stopped working. I replaced the plug and it still doesn't work. A voltage meter is not reading anything on the outlet (before or after the new plug - is there another way to test for currrent?). The circuit breaker has never gone off. It seems that there is no power coming to the plug. What should I do next to fix the problem? The only 2 possibilities I can think of is the breaker is bad or the wire is bad. How could I tell if either one or both is bad and needs to be fixed? Btw, I am a novice at this stuff but would like to try and fix it myself if possible and prudent. Thanks,
By plug do you mean the outlet in the wall ? If so I need to know if were talking about 120 volt or 220 volt. That's very important in order for me to help you.
yes...it is an outlet in the wall (120 volt). thanks.
More than likely you have another outlet in the circuit before the breaker that is the problem. Also check to see if you have any tripped GFI outlets. Check all power to all outlets in your house
Also do a search in my forum for no power. You will find many post there on the same problem you're having.
it turned out to be something so simple (which isn't surprising)...i followed the wires leading out of the box (which was in a cabinet) and where it crossed an adjoining wall i assumed it went to another bedroom...but there's a small closet in-between in the stairwell. I pulled out a drawer in the closet and there it was - wires running to a circuit breaker in the back of the closet...a breaker was off.
it took a lot of time and frustration but i learned a ton about something i know little about, so it was worth it...thanks Dominick for the help and you have an excellent website.
Cool deal. And thank you very much.
Dominick,
I have searched the internet for three days now. I found your 3-way switch demo the best. I have two questions.
1. My 3-way switches are connected with 14-2. Is there a way to get 14-3 in there? After watching your video, I think I know why it is not really a 3-way switch.
2. I am also looking a 3-way switched split receptacle solution.
I hope I am using the right terms here. I have 2 3-way switches that control two 2-receptacle outlets. the top receptacle of each outlet is switched and controlleed by the 3-way switches. The bottom receptacle is supposed to be hot, but I don't get anything out of it. I have no idea what to do.
Thanks in advance.
Mike
Thank you very much. And no you would have to remove the old 14/2 wire and install a 14/3 wire.
You would have to remove those outlets and see how the wiring is done. And what kind of outlet it is. Try going into my forum and post a picture of it for me to see.
I just bought a new electric dryer this weekend. I have had a gas dryer for the past 22 years but prior to that I did have an electric dryer. The dryer won't start. Is it possible that the breaker has gotten corroded from lack of use? The 220 has not been disconnected but fails to work. I did flip the breaker several times but it still doesn't work. Please help if you can. . . . .Thanks!
Hi Sandy, No the breaker would still be good or bad, what ever state it was in when you last used it. A dryer will need 220 volts. So make sure you are playing with the right breaker, it will be a 2 pole breaker. Mesning it will be bigger then the others (120 volt)
Also if the dryer is new chances are someone had to install the wire to the dryer. Make sure it's installed the right way. Also get a cheap tester and test the outlet. You'll be looking for 220 volts.
Real important that I know the colors of the wires and what you have hooked up. Also if you can send me picture of this that would be a big help. Make sure you don't have any white wires connected to the switch. More then likely the breaker did trip but it doesn't look like it did. Trying flipping it off and back on again. But only after you disconnected the wires from the switch.
can two white wires be under the same place . robert
What do you mean "same place" if you mean connected together then yes.
hi I am wiring lights and sockets threw my house and my electric guy said that I can get away with running a 20 breaker with 12-2 wire on 15 amp sockets and light switches, he said it's not code but I can't even plug 20 amp plugs into a 15 amp socket anyway, is that true. also how many 60 watt lights and can I run on a 20 amp and 15 amp circuit I have 10 lights now on one.
Yes you can get away with it. But it's not worth it. It's better to just use 20 amp outlets. And yes you can insert a 20 amp whatever in a 15 amp outlet. a 20 amp 220 would be different.
By code you can put 12 whatever on one 20 amp line. Not just light bulbs. But as far as just how many light bulbs. That's a tuff one.
hi my son is building a new house it is 3600 sq ft. his builder has told him he needs a 400amp sevrice with 2 200amp boxes. i have done some ele, work over the years but i don,t see the need for this . do you? thanks frankie
No not really. However this would really depend on what he has in the house that would need so much. 3600 is a nice size. He may be doing this because of how many breakers the house needs there for he needs the other panel for the room as well. so in that case it's not the matter of the 400 amp service, it's on the room in the panel that will be needed.