Simple, because these floor are made from wood and wood expands. If you didn't have that space and when the floor exspands it would buckle and break. So it's very important that you leave at least 1/4 - 3/8 space between the floor and wall.
Hi Maria. Well first off you would never install real hardwood on stairs. Stairs treads would be oak or a nice wood to begin with. Then you would just refinish them if you do have oak treads. However if you just have pine stairs then yes you would cover them with a laminate if you like.
Thanks for your informative laminate stair installation video (saw it on youtube).
We're installing a Pergo product that has the manufacturer's pre-attached underlayment. Pergo's customer advice line says the underlayment does not need to be removed before adhesion to stairs.
Questions:
1. If you install flooring with pre-attached underlayment on stairs do you remove the underlayment?
2. Do you have a preference for PL400 vs LiquidNails Subfloor & Deck adhesive? Is one better than the other in terms of bonding or drying time?
I am trying to install laminate flooring and the boards are not connectting together easily. When I tap on it with my kit I purchased using the plastic block, it chips the edge of laminate. What am I doing worng, why is it not connecting together smoothly? Is it because it is cheap laminate flooring it just won't connect?
Make sure there is no dirt or anything in the locks. Make sure that you have one board laying on the floor and the other at something like a 20-30 angle. pushing it in while push down. I never even bang a board in just for that reason.
I'm installing some laminate wood floor and I was wondering how I should install the grain in relation to the sunlight. I have North and South windows in the room. Should the grain be parallel or perpendicular to the sunlight. Does it really matter?
No it doesn't matter. I have read before some morons say that it does matter before. However they really have no idea what they are talking about.. So, no it doesn't matter. However, installing the board parallel with the sun if your board is a light color will help hide the edges (board ends) .. Hope I was able to help you.
I have some 450 ' of laminate to replace the carpet upstairs. I was reading the back of the insert and it says between rooms i need to leave an expansion gap in the door and use a T molding at doorways. The whole floor will be lam so if I leave the 1/4 around the perimeter do I need to leave it in the door to the rooms as well.
They are referring if you used a T molding. Try cutting the dor jams so you can run the flooring under it and not next to it. It will look a whole lot better.
I'm laying alsafloor laminate that has been stored unopened in my basement for about 5 years. It lays flat on it's own and doesn't appear to be warped, but it won't lay flat when I connect it. The groove side springs up about a half inch. Any suggestions?
It really sounds like the boards are not all the way in the lock or you may have some dirt in the lock. However some of the older laminated floors can be very hard to lock together. Also make sure the boards can lay nice and flat by it self.
we are putting in laminate flooring, do we need to put in what i call floor edgeing. They are the triangle shaped things (one side is rounded) that run around the room on the floor.
I thought that it is used to hide the edges from were the floor meets the wall? and if so how do we so that? The wall is cement and the flooring is going on cement too, i know that wrong, but that's all our landlord will allow
I am getting ready to install laminate flooring in my mobile home which is very level. I want to run it lengthways along the marrage line (which has about a 3/4 inch gap (should I fill that or is it ok to leave?) I was told that it should run perpindicular across the marrage line, but I know this won't look as good. What do you suggest? Please get back to me as soon as possible, I have people to come instal tomorrow
I am installing mirrored closet doors on top of laminate flooring that will run parallel to the door. Should I drill the holes in the flooring larger than the screws for the closet base to allow for floor movement? If so, how much larger should the hole be?
Yes you should. I would go with a 1/4" the plate you put on the floor should be asble to cover that hole. Sorry for the delay, were in Vegas shooting a video this week.
I am laying laminate flooring in my 2nd floor kitchen over linoleum that is in good condition (only 5 yrs old). Do I need to put down any underlayment or does the linoleum serve as the underlayment? If needed, what type do you recommend -- the home store has a pretty wide range of options and price. Thanks.
You 1st need to determine if the flooring is quick lock or glued joints ;find a long parallel joint and try to pry it apart,if its glued score with straight edge and very sharp utility knife take out the damaged section and reinstall using bis cut joint er and gorilla glue if its snap lock or quick lock it will separate slightly then lift the 1st piece closest to the wall and work backwards till you get to the problem area(remember that quick lock flooring unhooks in the opposite direction it was installed)and visa versa
Five years ago I had laminate flooring installed in my great room. Now I want to take out the carpeting in the hallway and install laminate myself. Currently, there is t molding between the laminate and the carpet. What is the best transition to use between the two rooms? Should I leave a strip of molding or is it easy to slip some of the boards out from the great room so that I can stagger the length to continue the floor in the hallway?
The best thing to do would be to just replace that transion with a new real oak saddle or transion. Try not to use those cheap ones that match the flooring, it's just not worth it.
SORRY, BUT I HAVE ONE MORE ? , HAS ANYONE EVERY COME BACK AND SAID THAT THE GLUE UNDER THE STAIR NOSE DIDN'T HOLD, OR THERE WAS EVER A PROBLEM WITH IT???
THANKS ALOT AGAIN, DOMINICK!!!! YOU GOT IT GOIN' ON. :)
No they havent. And trust me I do this all the time and if the glue wasn't going to hold my phone would be ringing. Just use a good glue like PL200 and you'll be fine.
Hi there! I saw your installation lesson of allure vinyl floor and I was wondering if is suitable for bathrooms. Can it be placed under a standalone bathtub? Will it prevent water penetration between the gaps of allure and avoid the water to wet the plywood underneath?
How do I get rid of "peaking" on a recently installed laminate wood floor? The installer said the floor is a floating floor (not glued onto the concrete surface beneath) and so the "peaking" is normal.
Humm. Peaking ? I never ever heard of "peaking" But I think you wouuld mean that the board joints are raising. If so, don't let someone tell you that's normal. This would mean that the floor is way to tight against the walls. The floor needs to move. And if it can't move from side to side, then yes the floor could raise creating what you call peaking. To fix this the WHOLE FLOOR needs to come out.
My subfloor is concrete. There are some areas that has a height difference between are 5mm to 6mm. From what I read this is over the prescribed deviaton. But really 5mm or even 6mm is almost negligible. Do I really have to strictly follow the tolerance?
No not really. Most laminate floors will bend over a short time to the floor just as long as it's not that bad. I installed many laminate floors in boats that have a very uneven floor and for the most part it does shape to the sub-floor.
However you can fill in the low spots with a floor self leveling compound. You can buy this in the tile section of Home Depot or where ever.
1. A salesman this weekend warned me about purchaing laminate that already had underlayment on it. The concern was that the click-groves would not have support under them like they would if I lay down a complete sheet. I did notice that a store that sells a LOT of laminate had none that had underlayment already attached.
2. I see demonstrations of underlayment that DOES do a great job with noise reduction, but what is being put on the ones that already have underlayment attached.
Ya know I get alot of this. Yes it's fine, it's better then fine to use this type. In my video I used just that and that was a few years ago no. With not one issue.
Hi quick question why do u need to leave a gap from the la,inate flooring and the wall is this nessecary
Simple, because these floor are made from wood and wood expands. If you didn't have that space and when the floor exspands it would buckle and break. So it's very important that you leave at least 1/4 - 3/8 space between the floor and wall.
HI WE ARE NOT SURE IF WE SHOULD LAY SOLID HARDWOOD OR LAMINATE ON OUR STAIRCASE & UPSTAIRS? WHAT WOULD YOU RECOMMEND?
Hi Maria. Well first off you would never install real hardwood on stairs. Stairs treads would be oak or a nice wood to begin with. Then you would just refinish them if you do have oak treads. However if you just have pine stairs then yes you would cover them with a laminate if you like.
Is it true that nailing into laminate flooring will cause it to shatter? I want to put a runner on my steps and the floor guy told me that.
Well it could shatter. However don't nail it down on the stairs. Use a good construction glue like I did in my laminate stair video..
Hi Dominick,
Thanks for your informative laminate stair installation video (saw it on youtube).
We're installing a Pergo product that has the manufacturer's pre-attached underlayment. Pergo's customer advice line says the underlayment does not need to be removed before adhesion to stairs.
Questions:
1. If you install flooring with pre-attached underlayment on stairs do you remove the underlayment?
2. Do you have a preference for PL400 vs LiquidNails Subfloor & Deck adhesive? Is one better than the other in terms of bonding or drying time?
Thanks.
You know this comes up a lot on the job. My preference is PL400. I been using it well before you were able to buy in the home stores.
Just glue it down with the padding attached to it. But you may notice that it will give that extra hight needed for the stair nosing.
Regards... Dominick
Make sure there is no dirt or anything in the locks. Make sure that you have one board laying on the floor and the other at something like a 20-30 angle. pushing it in while push down. I never even bang a board in just for that reason.
Hey,
I'm installing some laminate wood floor and I was wondering how I should install the grain in relation to the sunlight. I have North and South windows in the room. Should the grain be parallel or perpendicular to the sunlight. Does it really matter?
Thanks.
No it doesn't matter. I have read before some morons say that it does matter before. However they really have no idea what they are talking about.. So, no it doesn't matter. However, installing the board parallel with the sun if your board is a light color will help hide the edges (board ends) .. Hope I was able to help you.
Thanks that helps, we have a darker oak so it should be fine either way.
I'll tell me friends and family about your site. Excellent information!
you are very welcome. And thank you... I do work very hard on this site.
Hi
I have some 450 ' of laminate to replace the carpet upstairs. I was reading the back of the insert and it says between rooms i need to leave an expansion gap in the door and use a T molding at doorways. The whole floor will be lam so if I leave the 1/4 around the perimeter do I need to leave it in the door to the rooms as well.
Thanks
Andy
They are referring if you used a T molding. Try cutting the dor jams so you can run the flooring under it and not next to it. It will look a whole lot better.
Hi Dom,
I'm laying alsafloor laminate that has been stored unopened in my basement for about 5 years. It lays flat on it's own and doesn't appear to be warped, but it won't lay flat when I connect it. The groove side springs up about a half inch. Any suggestions?
It really sounds like the boards are not all the way in the lock or you may have some dirt in the lock. However some of the older laminated floors can be very hard to lock together. Also make sure the boards can lay nice and flat by it self.
I thought that it is used to hide the edges from were the floor meets the wall? and if so how do we so that? The wall is cement and the flooring is going on cement too, i know that wrong, but that's all our landlord will allow
No that's fine. Just make sure you install a vapor barrier. Yes the 1/4 round is only to hide the edges.
does the thickness of the laminate make a big difference? I found a color I like , but the sample is thinner than some of the others????
I am getting ready to install laminate flooring in my mobile home which is very level. I want to run it lengthways along the marrage line (which has about a 3/4 inch gap (should I fill that or is it ok to leave?) I was told that it should run perpindicular across the marrage line, but I know this won't look as good. What do you suggest? Please get back to me as soon as possible, I have people to come instal tomorrow
The person installing this should have the right anser for your issue. However I would run the floor with the cap. not accross it.
Yes for the most part. However they are all good. I would dend to stay with a thicker one if your has uneven areas. Or in a basement area.
I am installing mirrored closet doors on top of laminate flooring that will run parallel to the door. Should I drill the holes in the flooring larger than the screws for the closet base to allow for floor movement? If so, how much larger should the hole be?
Yes you should. I would go with a 1/4" the plate you put on the floor should be asble to cover that hole. Sorry for the delay, were in Vegas shooting a video this week.
I am laying laminate flooring in my 2nd floor kitchen over linoleum that is in good condition (only 5 yrs old). Do I need to put down any underlayment or does the linoleum serve as the underlayment? If needed, what type do you recommend -- the home store has a pretty wide range of options and price. Thanks.
yes you do. I mean you could get away without using padding, but I wouldn't chance it. A cheap padding would work just fine for you.
You 1st need to determine if the flooring is quick lock or glued joints ;find a long parallel joint and try to pry it apart,if its glued score with straight edge and very sharp utility knife take out the damaged section and reinstall using bis cut joint er and gorilla glue if its snap lock or quick lock it will separate slightly then lift the 1st piece closest to the wall and work backwards till you get to the problem area(remember that quick lock flooring unhooks in the opposite direction it was installed)and visa versa
Five years ago I had laminate flooring installed in my great room. Now I want to take out the carpeting in the hallway and install laminate myself. Currently, there is t molding between the laminate and the carpet. What is the best transition to use between the two rooms? Should I leave a strip of molding or is it easy to slip some of the boards out from the great room so that I can stagger the length to continue the floor in the hallway?
Thank you very much,
Jana Jenkins
The best thing to do would be to just replace that transion with a new real oak saddle or transion. Try not to use those cheap ones that match the flooring, it's just not worth it.
SORRY, BUT I HAVE ONE MORE ? , HAS ANYONE EVERY COME BACK AND SAID THAT THE GLUE UNDER THE STAIR NOSE DIDN'T HOLD, OR THERE WAS EVER A PROBLEM WITH IT???
THANKS ALOT AGAIN, DOMINICK!!!! YOU GOT IT GOIN' ON. :)
No they havent. And trust me I do this all the time and if the glue wasn't going to hold my phone would be ringing. Just use a good glue like PL200 and you'll be fine.
Hi there! I saw your installation lesson of allure vinyl floor and I was wondering if is suitable for bathrooms. Can it be placed under a standalone bathtub? Will it prevent water penetration between the gaps of allure and avoid the water to wet the plywood underneath?
Thanks, your site is awesome.
Fred
Thank you Fred. Yes this stuff is really nice and is great for a wet locations.
Hi Dominick!
First of all i haven't done any DIY before so if i asked
any silly question please be nice about it^.^
anyway...
Question 1:what should i do when the flooring comes to the
door? it difference compare to the wall which is a bit
easier just to add trims, but i can't just do the same in front of the door way.
Question 2: there is some kind of dry brown
powerish/foamish under the carpet, some of them stick to
the floor and some under the carpet, what are they and what is
the best way to clear it?
Question 3: what preparation before i start laying
my floor?
Question 4: how do i work out what underlay i need?
Question 5: will a jigsaw like this be good enough for the
job to cut laminate wood? (Powerbase Xtreme Jigsaw Kit with
Laser - 800W)
http://www.homebase.co.uk/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product
Display?langId=-
1&storeId=20001&partNumber=1823925&Trail=searchtext%
3EJIG+SAW
Question 6: how do i judge Laminate Floor, other then the
price? what do i have to look for before i decide which one to buy?
Thanks for you help, it a great site and keep on the good
work.
Hi Dominick,
When installing laminate on the stairs,do I have to cut bull nosing from stairs? The stairs were carpeted and it one end open with balusters.
Thank you
Alex
No, you just lay them down with glue and nails tightly against the existing tread.
How do I get rid of "peaking" on a recently installed laminate wood floor? The installer said the floor is a floating floor (not glued onto the concrete surface beneath) and so the "peaking" is normal.
Humm. Peaking ? I never ever heard of "peaking" But I think you wouuld mean that the board joints are raising. If so, don't let someone tell you that's normal. This would mean that the floor is way to tight against the walls. The floor needs to move. And if it can't move from side to side, then yes the floor could raise creating what you call peaking. To fix this the WHOLE FLOOR needs to come out.
under the cupboards there is a piece of plastic mopboard that comes out over the linoleum. can i just put the laminate flooring under that a ways .
Sure you can. If you can remove that board it would be easier. Or you could ad a 1/4 round trim to cover the edge.
My subfloor is concrete. There are some areas that has a height difference between are 5mm to 6mm. From what I read this is over the prescribed deviaton. But really 5mm or even 6mm is almost negligible. Do I really have to strictly follow the tolerance?
No not really. Most laminate floors will bend over a short time to the floor just as long as it's not that bad. I installed many laminate floors in boats that have a very uneven floor and for the most part it does shape to the sub-floor.
However you can fill in the low spots with a floor self leveling compound. You can buy this in the tile section of Home Depot or where ever.
Hi Dominick,
It is very nice video and you made it clear that stairs should be glued without any padding and tight to the walls.
I have landing in the middle and it is not clear if i need to use padding on the landing and have 1/4" gap or glue the whole area.
Any advice?
Thank you,
Andre
Thank you. Yes you should use the padding on the landing.
Dominick...I have a few questions.
1. A salesman this weekend warned me about purchaing laminate that already had underlayment on it. The concern was that the click-groves would not have support under them like they would if I lay down a complete sheet. I did notice that a store that sells a LOT of laminate had none that had underlayment already attached.
2. I see demonstrations of underlayment that DOES do a great job with noise reduction, but what is being put on the ones that already have underlayment attached.
Ya know I get alot of this. Yes it's fine, it's better then fine to use this type. In my video I used just that and that was a few years ago no. With not one issue.