i am installing a ge 125 amp box in a shed that i built. i am using 220 aluminum wire and wondering how to connect the 3 main wires into the panel. can you help?
sure I can help.. Three wire. Two of them are the hot leads. 120 volt each. and one the neutral. But this all means you would be bringing 220 volts to a shed. May not be a good idea. Before I go on do you need 220 volts in the shed. ?
I'm planning to tear into my bathroom which needs some work. The exterior wall is not insulated, and as you can imagine is not pleasant during the winter. Also extra stuffy in the summer with the afternoon sun beating on that side of the house. I'm planning to beat up the wall, insulate, new window, new tub and toilet, sink and new floor. My question is really can you think of any reason and older home (built 1940's) would not be insulated in the bath? My Dad's newer home, (1995) has an uninsulated exterior bath wall also. Thanks!
Hi Robert, to answer your question simply. That would be because they didn't use insulation back then. I would suggest when you re-do your bathroom. Would be to remove the rock off of the outside wall and insulate it.
In an attempt to replace the 1/8"W x 1/4"D clear u-channel vinyl glazing that surrounds the 1/8" tempered shower door glass, I contacted Sterling (Kohler), who made the doors. The will not replace or sell that vinyl to a consumer or licensed glass installer. They say if it gets moldy, buy new doors. Well... that is not going to happen. I can get a grey vinyl from TechnologyLK, but I would rather have the clear. I have spent many hours trying to locate the manufacturer of the clear vinyl, no luck. Any suggestions.
I justed started not to long ago making small projects with my router. I got a craftsman bench top router. I got a featherboard for it and my slide on the table is 5/8in wide and 1/4in deep I bought a miter gauge for it too. They fit but is it suppose to move back and forth freely mine as mine is kind of stiff. any suggestions on how to fix it
Being that they are suppose to fit I have always used steal wool to polish them up a little. I have even used a little bar soap on them. Give these a try and let me know how you make out.
Nice website! I am trying to install laminate floor in my kitchen , but I have three doors to deal with. What is the best way to install the floor around the door jam without tearing off the baseboard? I know I need to cut a the bottom of the door jam, but if I leave 1/4" expansion gap to the baseboard, there will be some empty space at the junction of baseboard and door jam?
Oh boy, do i ever know what you mean. Just keep washing them with dish soup. Let your hands dry real good and them do it again. It's not easy but it will come out.
When installing laminate flooring, should I remove the moulding on the baseboard and install the flooring with the 1/4 inch gap from the wall or leave the moulding and install 1/4 inch from the moulding? I would think to remove the moulding before starting. Thanks for the help. Good videos also.
Adding the 1/4 round is easy and much faster. It really depends on mow much you have and how many turns you have. Also once you remove the existing base trim you will change the hight of the trim now. So other joining rooms with the same trim will be lower. So by just adding the 1/4 round can save you some extra work, or even a lot of work.
On rainy days, my back door leaks from the bottom of the door. I have not been able to determine exactly where the water is coming from. (A bit of history, the original homeowner pulled out the carpet and did DIY scored floors, another story for another day, I don't know if they pulled the carpet out beacuse of the leak or if the carpet removal caused the leak). But when it rains and before the puddle appears, around the toe board the scored floor darkens signaling moisture build-up. This happens right in front of the door and about one foot to the left and right of the door. Also, I see that my doorjabb, 4 inches from the bottom, is water damaged. I would like to install laminate flooring on top of the horrible concrete floors but I NEED to address the leak first. Can you help? Thank you.
Sure I can help you. Here's the deal first. You should never ever have any water build up near the door. You will want to do something to pitch that away first. Can you send me a picture from the outside. This will help me better help you. Use the contact us on the top menu to send me your email. Do not post your email here for your sake.
Just watched your video on youtube about replacing vinyl siding - very helpful - thanks!
I have a slightly different issue relating to siding. (I've posted a picture at: http://yfrog.com/83siding3j )
I'm getting water in the house - and I've found that where the flashing is supposed to be joined there is a 1/2 inch gap that is allowing the water to run into the house. (top arrow)
The flashing is supposed to act as a channel. What's the best way to fix the gap in the flashing to prevent any more leaking?
I've been told to take the flashing off, and overlap it better to eliminate the gap, but I don't see how that will be water tight.
I am putting a laminate floor in my kitchen and the floor is warped near the windows because of the rain (we must have left the windows open when it rained). My question is should I glue the whole thing to the floor and not have it floating on the floor so its all even because when you stand on it the flooring comes up.
NO never glue a laminate floor down. I would however screw down the sub floor better in the area. Unless the wood is really bad then you would have to cut out the bad area and replace it.
Dominick,
I'm planning to tear into my bathroom which needs some work. The exterior wall is not insulated, and as you can imagine is not pleasant during the winter. Also extra stuffy in the summer with the afternoon sun beating on that side of the house. I'm planning to beat up the wall, insulate, new window, new tub and toilet, sink and new floor. My question is really can you think of any reason and older home (built 1940's) would not be insulated in the bath? My Dad's newer home, (1995) has an uninsulated exterior bath wall also. Thanks!
Hi Robert, to answer your question simply. That would be because they didn't use insulation back then. I would suggest when you re-do your bathroom. Would be to remove the rock off of the outside wall and insulate it.
In an attempt to replace the 1/8"W x 1/4"D clear u-channel vinyl glazing that surrounds the 1/8" tempered shower door glass, I contacted Sterling (Kohler), who made the doors. The will not replace or sell that vinyl to a consumer or licensed glass installer. They say if it gets moldy, buy new doors. Well... that is not going to happen. I can get a grey vinyl from TechnologyLK, but I would rather have the clear. I have spent many hours trying to locate the manufacturer of the clear vinyl, no luck. Any suggestions.
Sure I know what you mean. Try this place out.
HD SUPPLY-HIGH POINT NC
3150 ENGLISH AVE
HIGH POINT, NC, 27262-8125
336-883-7161
also http://www.sterlingplumbing.com/where-to-buy#results
Being that they are suppose to fit I have always used steal wool to polish them up a little. I have even used a little bar soap on them. Give these a try and let me know how you make out.
Hi there.
Nice website! I am trying to install laminate floor in my kitchen , but I have three doors to deal with. What is the best way to install the floor around the door jam without tearing off the baseboard? I know I need to cut a the bottom of the door jam, but if I leave 1/4" expansion gap to the baseboard, there will be some empty space at the junction of baseboard and door jam?
Gene
The best way to get around that would be add a 1/4 round to the base trim to cover that cap. Or remove the base during install then re-install.
I grouted my kitchen counter tops with charcoal grout, and now it will not come off my hands. What can I use to get this off, they are charcoal color?
Oh boy, do i ever know what you mean. Just keep washing them with dish soup. Let your hands dry real good and them do it again. It's not easy but it will come out.
When installing laminate flooring, should I remove the moulding on the baseboard and install the flooring with the 1/4 inch gap from the wall or leave the moulding and install 1/4 inch from the moulding? I would think to remove the moulding before starting. Thanks for the help. Good videos also.
Adding the 1/4 round is easy and much faster. It really depends on mow much you have and how many turns you have. Also once you remove the existing base trim you will change the hight of the trim now. So other joining rooms with the same trim will be lower. So by just adding the 1/4 round can save you some extra work, or even a lot of work.
On rainy days, my back door leaks from the bottom of the door. I have not been able to determine exactly where the water is coming from. (A bit of history, the original homeowner pulled out the carpet and did DIY scored floors, another story for another day, I don't know if they pulled the carpet out beacuse of the leak or if the carpet removal caused the leak). But when it rains and before the puddle appears, around the toe board the scored floor darkens signaling moisture build-up. This happens right in front of the door and about one foot to the left and right of the door. Also, I see that my doorjabb, 4 inches from the bottom, is water damaged. I would like to install laminate flooring on top of the horrible concrete floors but I NEED to address the leak first. Can you help? Thank you.
Sure I can help you. Here's the deal first. You should never ever have any water build up near the door. You will want to do something to pitch that away first. Can you send me a picture from the outside. This will help me better help you. Use the contact us on the top menu to send me your email. Do not post your email here for your sake.
By see through do you mean "open" as in no riser. If so you would install it the same way.
I have a slightly different issue relating to siding. (I've posted a picture at: http://yfrog.com/83siding3j )
I'm getting water in the house - and I've found that where the flashing is supposed to be joined there is a 1/2 inch gap that is allowing the water to run into the house. (top arrow)
The flashing is supposed to act as a channel. What's the best way to fix the gap in the flashing to prevent any more leaking?
I've been told to take the flashing off, and overlap it better to eliminate the gap, but I don't see how that will be water tight.
Any suggestions? Thanks!
Joe
What you need is to use whats called a Z bar flashing. I will have to email you or post it up of how it looks. I will do so very soon.
I am putting a laminate floor in my kitchen and the floor is warped near the windows because of the rain (we must have left the windows open when it rained). My question is should I glue the whole thing to the floor and not have it floating on the floor so its all even because when you stand on it the flooring comes up.
NO never glue a laminate floor down. I would however screw down the sub floor better in the area. Unless the wood is really bad then you would have to cut out the bad area and replace it.